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Just like any tree, there's more than one way to plant an olive. Over our past 7
years of planting, growing and researching about olive trees we have observed
and tested many such methods. With these trials and research in mind we have
concluded that there is an optimum way to plant olive trees for maximum results.
Our customers have tried many methods, over the years, with varying degrees of
success. However, one thing that has been clearly displayed is that fully
irrigated trees planted in good climates and soils according to the steps below,
grow approximately one yard per year in both height and breadth, in their early
years. This is faster than any other natural methods we have seen.
So here they are - the steps for planting a healthy, fast growing olive orchard.
You don't have to follow these steps but if you do, the long term results will
generally please you.
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Roughly spread 2.5 to 3 cubic ft.
of well rotted animal manure at each tree site. (9 trees per cubic yard). Most
animal manures are suitable as long as they are not too fresh. Spread the
manure over an area of 9 ft X 9 ft , so that it's not concentrated in one
place.
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Also spread at up to 5 lbs per
tree of trace mineral such as Azomite (sometime called rock dust) at each tree
site (contains excellent minerals which are not water soluble and are
naturally available to the tree roots as required). Also spread this over the
9 ft x 9 ft area. Azomite can be obtained from Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, PO
Box 2209 Grass Valley, CA 95945, 888-784-172.
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If your soil requires the addition
of lime to bring it's pH level to 7.0-8.0 (alkaline), then add the required
amount to the manure and trace minerals. Contact your local Department of
Agriculture or fertilizer company if you need pH testing done and lime
quantities worked out.
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Deep rip several times along the
full length of the planting row to a depth of 2 ft or more and a width of at
least 10 ft. The nutrients will be suitably mixed in as they drop down the
ripper grooves. You will end up with ten to twelve deep rips spread across the
10 ft width of the row. This preparation will give the roots an excellent
start and fast growth will result. You may wish to then level the ripped area
with a blade, rotary hoe or similar.
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Plant the tree at the same depth
as it was in the pot. Do not disturb the roots when removing the pot. (NB. It
is a good idea to place your irrigation system between steps 4 and 5.)
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Press soil down firmly around the
tree roots and make a depression to act as a watering basin.
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Water thoroughly and mulch with
coarse straw to conserve water, cool the soil, and reduce weed growth. The
best mulches to use are those that contain plenty of nitrogen and other
nutrients to feed the tree. These include lucerne, soya bean and pea hay. Keep
the mulch 4"-6" away from the base of the trunk to allow the tree to breathe.
As the mulch decomposes over a period of time the nutrients are transferred
into the soil by earthworms, rain and micro-organisms. If using mulch, try to
buy spoiled (rain damaged) bales, which are often available for just one or
two dollars.
(NB. If you are planting in an area with relatively long, cold, wet winters
and short warm summers, only mulch very lightly or not at all. Too much mulch
will conserve too much water.)
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Continue your irrigation according
to our Irrigation sheet and general common sense. Be careful not to waterlog
as excess water is the olive tree's worst enemy.
NB. All our olive trees 'container grown' and hardened and can be planted in
moderate climates (winters that don't go below 25 deg F) at any time of the
year. Very young trees may need protection from severe frost and animals.
Further advice on these situations is readily available on this site.
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